The Starbelly Mystery

And you thought the Onion was joking when it headlined Starbucks to Begin Sinister 'Phase Two' of Operation...

Recently in Dallas, a new chain of sandwich shops, Potbelly, began to open. The first store was obviously too slick and too corporate to be anything but a chain. The second merely confirmed my suspiscion that we were under assault by yet-another-corporation.

Not that I dislike Potbelly. In fact, the one I eat lunch at (about once every two weeks) is just fine. The sandwiches are good and the people in the store seem genuinely, if unctuously, friendly. The chili is good, though somewhat over-beany and sweet to actually be called chili in Texas (see below). One should avoid the vegetable soup, which is gruelly, sweet, and devoid of vegetables.

Being generally suspiscious of corporate food marketing, I had wondered who was bank-rolling Potbelly. Obviously, there are some deep pockets here. McDonalds? Could be, after all, they steam-rolled Chipotle into affluent neighborhoods recently.

So, I looked at the Potbelly website. Very cute. Just a small-time sandwich shop making it big. But the aw-shucks small-time background seems a little contrived.

Hmmm...going national with sandwiches...hmmm...

Then, I ran across an interesting building at the corner of I-75 and Campbell in Richardson (North Dallas). The half-finished building looked familiar, but different, something like a mutant fetus. My first instinct was it's another Potbelly. My second instinct was no, it's something else, something familiar...

Then I recognized that certain architectural cue...it was a Starbucks. And it was a Potbelly. Together.

A Starbelly.

Phase Two has begun.

And now...Chili, Chili, Chili...

For reference, here is the recipe for chili. Note: Beans are served as an optional accompaniment on the side.

Serves 6

• 3 tablespoons ancho chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 1/2 ounce), toasted and ground
• 3 tablespoons New Mexico chili powder or 3 medium pods (about 3/4 ounce), toasted and ground
• 2 tablespoons cumin seeds toasted in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, about 4 minutes, and ground
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano preferably Mexican
• 7 1/2 cups water
• 1 beef chuck roast (4-pounds), trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 teaspoons table salt plus extra for seasoning
• 8 ounces bacon (7 or 8 slices), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 1 medium onion minced (about 1 cup)
• 5 medium cloves of garlic minced
• 4 - 5 small jalape o chiles cored, seeded, and minced
• 1 cup crushed tomatoes or plain tomato sauce
• 2 tablespoons lime juice from 1 medium lime
• 5 tablespoons masa harina or 3 tablespoons cornstarch
• ground black pepper

1. Mix chili powders, cumin, and oregano in small bowl and stir in 1/2 cup water to form thick paste; set aside. Toss beef cubes with salt; set aside.

2. Fry bacon in large, heavy soup kettle or Dutch oven over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, about 10 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon to paper towel-lined plate; pour all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot into small bowl; set aside. Increase heat to medium-high; saut� meat in four batches until well-browned on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch, adding additional 2 teaspoons bacon fat to pot as necessary. Reduce heat to medium, add 3 tablespoons bacon fat to now-empty pan. Add onion; saut� until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add garlic and jalape�o; saut� until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chili paste; saut� until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Add reserved bacon and browned beef, crushed tomatoes or tomato sauce, lime juice, and 7 cups water; bring to simmer. Continue to cook at a steady simmer until meat is tender and juices are dark, rich, and starting to thicken, about 2 hours.

3. Mix masa harina with 2/3 cup water (or cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water) in a small bowl to form smooth paste. Increase heat to medium; stir in paste and simmer until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust seasoning generously with salt and ground black pepper. Serve immediately, or preferably, cool slightly, cover, and refrigerate overnight or for up to 5 days. Reheat before serving.